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| Rodhog
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| Posted:Sep 26 2002, 01:05 AM |
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I just thought ot get this site started
Why are fluid changes so important in Mx-6 turbo's
The Main reason, they break down Quicker in these cars due to the added heat of the Turbocharger. Hydrolic fluid being No.1 fluid to replace after buy these types of cars let alone other model.s
The 4WS loves clean good fluid to operate correctly. ATX's or Auto gearboxes need a change every 6-12 months or 20,000km's. These Modern 4speeds like clean ATX fluid. Drexon 3 is what I recomend.
Brake fluid should be naturally changed every year.
Oil of course should be replaced every 5000km or less. Factory says 7500km I only think you should change at that rate if you drive it like a Old Lady. Reason Turbo's love clean oil. The bearings need it. Filter sould be done as well, at the same time. Mazda original is recomended.
Hope this helps in keep your MX-6 on the road. 
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| Posted:Sep 26 2002, 01:15 AM |
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i agree, u really cant stress enough how important oil changes are in these cars. I tend to neglect the cooling system tho, i've had the same stuff in there for a year now so i suppose its time to get that over and done with.
rodhog, wat type of engine oil do you use? i started off with mobil 1 and then tried shell helix ultra but noticed that too much oil was being burnt so i changed to mobil semi synthetic which works a treat imo. Oil doesnt require as much top ups and its also alot more affordable, it's also been suggested that thinner oils are not the best for older engines.
How much oil do you go thru during your 5000km's? I sometimes get a little concerned that my car might be burning too much but its probably just indicates how hard i drive it  |
| Rodhog
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| Posted:Sep 26 2002, 01:56 AM |
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Well I am lazy with that type of work because I generally am Asking my merchanic to fix other things. Plus getting you oil changed by someone good is like Law in Lakemba do it yourself it's like your a expert 
But I don't use any. What the you say I do run more boost which would mean more blow by but, if changed every 5000 it should be little.
I use from what my sticker say Penrite Turbo oil or sometime it say 10-40W or 10-50W. Mobil 1 is good oil. Synthetic oil when they mean older cars they mean carbby cars. I know it's hard to understand because these car are old now. But old engines like the Holden 202 or even that Buick V6 can run on canola oil if need be. Just no real tolerances. We need clean thin but good oil for the turbo.
As long as you still have 3/4 of oil left on the dipstick before you change it I would stick to what you have already.
I have never let my oil level go below Full and it never has but mine has well low kays so it's still quite tight, but is on boost alot due to the auto.
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| Posted:Sep 26 2002, 06:11 PM |
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Its actually quite easy to go over the "full" level when filling your engine with oil in my mx6. Say for example i check my oil after about 2 month of use it might be at the 3/4 level, all thats required for you to go over full would be around 500ml's. So i would have to say that my car tends to blow by and/or burn about that much within a 2 month period, judging from your response rodhog this isnt normal? i havent noticed any oil leaks so im pretty certain that the oil is either being burned or blown by, should i be concerned about losing this amount of oil? My car has around 150,000kms, first 120 or so on stock boost, the rest @ approx 12psi give or take 1 psi depending on wat gear im in  |
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| Posted:Sep 27 2002, 03:04 AM |
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I would not worry too much
I have seen lots of cars with Catch cans some have stopped the oil from disapearing
but the real question is if ti's normal. I was not trying to sayt it's not normal but IT IS for any turbo car. I find the best thing to do is get a fuel filter and put it in between the breather and cam cover line, even the PCV valve one, over time you can see how much oil builds up. The cheep $2 Ryco stly clear filters are perfect. Infact I remember looking at them after about 2 weeks of driveing an they had very little oil in them that's normal driveing too. but when I went on a cruize Photo is in my Photo gallery. The main breather which is plumbed into the intake had filled with about 50ml's of oil. Mainly because I was on boost a lot.
The main thing is constant changes or it does damage.
Me and My mates ran a Holden 202 on no oil and it did eventually go on the M5 at 100km/h in first gear stupid and one reason the oil pump failed and engine blew but still funny.
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| Posted:Sep 28 2002, 05:12 AM |
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the photo your referring to isnt appearing on your profile, maybe there was an error with the upload? in any event i would be interested in seeing the photo as i wouldnt mind setting up something similar
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| Posted:Sep 29 2002, 03:00 PM |
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Oh yeah nothing up yet on the setup but photo form that cruize
don't worry give me a bit of time I will have one
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| Posted:Sep 30 2002, 09:50 PM |
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added some if not up now in about 30min
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| Posted:Nov 3 2002, 10:10 PM |
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Do you recomend the std mazda airfilter over a K&N or an aftermatket pod style in an air box?
rhys.,.
Sleak MX-6
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| Posted:Nov 4 2002, 08:54 AM |
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K&N in a box or externally mounted
If it goes in a Box must be given lots of air or panel in a box will be the smae if it breaths through the same small hole for air.
K&N 's are best outside the engine bay in free air , best with cold air tubes pushing air onto it or around it. I can't remember if you have the Airflow meter or not. but just remember the further from the turbo the more lilkly you will kill a few Kws' from top end. so make the inlet pipe massive if you can, in real terms it really does not matter but I do know for Dyno comps guys with MAP setup on ECu's their first run is with either filter on inlet or no filter or pipe on the inlet.
Always try for shortest path but feed fresh air.
It's always nice to breath fresh air be it human or an engine.
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 Posted:Nov 5 2002, 08:33 PM |
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i've found that the best setup is to just have a large pod style filter open in the engine bay with cold air ducting positioned close to it... I tried enclosing it with a sleave over the filter and the car felt less responsive, ripped it off and the extra hp was immediately notciable.
i pressume having even a k&n drop in enclosed in the case will result is power loss if you have a little more boost than stock or any other type of performance mod... |
