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I4 modification FAQ, Definate must see! |
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| Vanmx6racer
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| Posted:Oct 26 2002, 10:30 AM |
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I4 (FS-03 and FS-ZE) modification FAQ
The I4 is a venerable engine. Believe it or not, when it came out, it was a powerful little engine, though you might laugh at it’s 118hp versus the likes of GS-R’s 170hp. The I4 were never made to compete with cars such as the GSR or a Prelude and it can’t. The I4 was created for the budget minded, the ones who want 30mpg and doesn’t care about horsepower numbers. Mazda I4 program has been long in the running and has churned out some amazing engine (BPT, BPD…) but it was decided that the Mx-6 would not benefit from these venerable engine due to the revolutionary V6 already being offered. And just as the KL-03 has a powerful twin in the KL-ZE, so does our FS-02. In 1997, Mazda Motor Corporation, on the verge of bankruptcy decided to create a new series of I4 engines. They adapted the VRIS into the I4 through a system called the VCIS. Thus the FS-ZE was born, making well over 170hp in the raw stage and ending up with 170hp after emission standards toned them down. Below is a list of modification that I personally think is the most logical, as it addresses each part of the equation equally. I am listing it as babies’ steps in term of money, as each stage becomes progressively more expensive.
The earlier stages might seem frugal to you as hp numbers are not very impressive. But remember, if you are able to gain 10hp, that is about a 10% increase in power, quite a substantial performance improvement. You must always keep in mind to go slow, don't think of building a 200hp+ engine if you haven't already built up one that produces 120-190hp.
Preparation:
- This is the often neglected stage of performance upgrades. It is fairly simple, replacing everything that is causing you problem, making sure nothing will blow up as you move along. Your car should be in as perfect a condition as it can be before you move on to any performance upgrades. An improperly running engine will not make as much power as it should with modification and will destroy itself much faster.
Stage 1: (+3hp)
1. Cold Air Intake - Make your own, materials will be around $50
1a. If you decide to buy, cost will be upward of $100-150
2. Exhaust system ---
2a. Bomb Muffler form eBay - $100
2b. High Flow Catalytic converter from eBay - $50
2c. Fee for mandrel bent tubing at Midas - $200
3. Front and Rear struts tower bars - $30 a piece
Stage 2: (+10hp)
1. Headers - Brospeed is the best way to go $300
2. Jspec Camshaft (FS-ZE) - from Corksport $200 (w shipping)
3. Eibach or any other Lowering Kit - $200
4. New struts, recommends Tokicos Illuminas $500
Stage 3: (50-150hp depending on your NOS)
1. Wheels, recommend 16x8 wheels as they offer the best of performance and looks ($300-$8,000)
2. Tires, recommend 225/50/zr16 to go with the wheels ($400-$800)
3. Camber plates for adjustability ($80)
4. Sway bars ($250)
5. Digital Fuel Controller ($300
6. Larger injectors ($200)
7. Fuel pressure regulator ($50)
8. NOS ($800)
Stage 4: (no hp, but looks galore)
1. Shogun kit (or any other) - $650
2. Paint and installation cost - $1500
3. Jspec or hopefully pod headlights - $200-500
4. A nice set of Recaros, or any kind of seats - $500
5. A good stereo system - $800
Now if you have a whole truck load of money waiting you can also do this:
Stage 5: (170hp)
FS-ZE: easiest 50hp+ you can make, but has not been done to scarcity and complexity of the VCIS system. $3000-$5000 depends on installer.
Stage 6: (???hp)
Complete engine build up. This is perhaps the most logical of all the stages. Our stock FS-02 can be coaxed to produce well over 200hp with a complete build up. Peaco offer engine packages that ranges from 150-300hp+. If you plan on moving to stage 7 and a turbo setup, you are advise to go through stage 6 first as a turboed engine need much stronger internals for serious power improvement. The ideal engine build up would involve an FS-ZE, port, polished and matched every part. Stronger internals and a good aftermarket computer. Coupled with headers and a CAi it should be able to produce well over 200hp in NA form. COst would be at least $4000 without installation cost, but still less than a properly setup turbo system making the same amount of power.
Stage 7: (150hp-unlimited potential depending on money)
Turbo the FS-03: expect to pay $4,000 for a custom setup; you will need intercooler, T03/04 turbo, piping, 250lph fuel pump, injectors, S-AFC, fuel pressure regulator, forged internals, tuning. This will create a monster engine, expected cost…well over $5,000.
Well that is about as comprehensive a list I can give you. If someone has additional info, please add onto this post. I have not given any specifics about each item but you should be able to get them all through searching. I must remind the reader that these mods are only for the serious minded. Building an I4 Mx-6 capable of running low 12’s in the quarter mile is a pipe dream. It can be done, but will need a lot of money and experience and frankly, is not worth it. If you are serious about racing, focus on your suspension and turning performance, not engine power. One fine point about our cars is the light weight. The prefer method of power if i had the money would be a fully built FS-ZE. This engine is known to produce well over 300hp+ in racing form. If you want to drag race, sell your 6, buy a 5.0 Fox body and annihilate everything.
Added on 6/4/2002
There has been alot of question on the cheapest and most reliable way to mod the stock I4 so here is a general guide:
The first and foremost thing you should get is the Jspec Intake cams, these will add significant horsepower (about 5-10 depends on the condition of your engine). DO NOT buy the exhaust cams as they are exactly the same as our A-spec, as for the Mazdaspeed, no one has try them yet so i wouldn't bother. You should than build a CAI or buy one. Than headers and Exhausts. These 4 things will give you a measurable 10 Horsepower at the crank, a 10% increase for about $1,000 (believe me that' super cheap.) That is about the only thing you can do without major engine work and cost. My car cost $2,000 I'm sure as hell not gonna spend another $2,000 for a friggin engine rebuild, but if you wanted to, go ahead.
Once again do not buy the jspec exhaust cams as they are exactly the same as the A-spec. The Intake manifold is also not worth buying since you have no way to control the VCIS so it is useless. You are better off Portign and Polishing your stock IM. If you want to buy the Jspec pistons you must know what is involved. They are relatively cheap, but it will cost you $1,000+ to get them installed. If you were doing a complete rebuild of your engine than get these, otherwise don't. Crower also makes stuff for our engine so if you want to build it, look them up. A complete build up will cost you around $3,000 for all parts and labor.
Post Created by:parisifal from mx6.com. Thanks
Van
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~VanCity Invader Style~ I4 powered and im still running with the big dogs! |
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| 2 replies since Oct 26 2002, 10:30 AM |
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