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| ODIN
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| KLZE next year???? |
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| Posted:Feb 1 2003, 12:40 PM |
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What do you think is the best mod for your buck NA wise for:
I4:???
V6:???
V8:???
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| Vanmx6racer
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| Posted:Feb 26 2003, 03:07 PM |
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I4: well personaly you cant be looking to push a high performance car here with the I4. If you wanna get a little more hp i would do the standard: exhaust and free flow muffler, cai, header and cams for performance. But if you have a solid cash flow maybe a turbo. If your looking for looks here I think some nice lowering springs/coils and rims (body kit?) is a great way to spend money.
v6: well if your going performance i would save ur money and turbo but if not then exhaust,header,cams,lowering springs and rims... straight forward but best way to go in my opinion. its a start.
-------------------- www.mx6.com www.mazdatalk.com ~VanCity Invader Style~ I4 powered and im still running with the big dogs! |
| mx68u
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| Posted:Mar 6 2003, 05:32 AM |
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exhaust is usually the best bang for back simply becoz all factory exhaust's a pretty damn restrictive.. on an na car some extractors would also give u a substantial gain, then some advanced timing and high octane fuel should be enough to keep you entertained for a while...
after that its things like nos, some lumpy cams and an aftermarket ecu or chip to adjust mixtures for the cams. With some good tuning and proper cam selection you should get a much more substantial increase in performance with a bit of a drivability compromise...
imho forced induction is always the way to go whether it be custom or engine swap |
| EvilChief
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| The Evil One |
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| Posted:Mar 7 2003, 03:02 PM |
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NA6:
I have found the easiest and cheapest modification for an NA 6 car is the air filter. An aftermarket panel filter into the box lets the machine breath a little easier. I wont be able to say if gives ya more HP at wheels or not, if so it might be so minimal that u wont be able to measure it. a replacement panel can be bought at around 100 dollars from pretty much anywhere. I have found K&N quite effective
If u like putting a little effort and brain into it, designing a cold air intake in combination with and enclosed POD filter is another good mod to get ur engine breathing easier. I design my air intake for around 200 dollars including the K&N POD and custom stainless steel piping and custom heat shield. I wasnt able to make the stainless steel piping but the heat shield was an easy to do urself. I will write a report about two of my designs later on and put em in the DIY section. It prolly gives u 1 or 2 kW at wheels, depending on how effetive ur cold air intake is.
Next best thing is a cat back exhaust. depending on engine size it can range from 2" to 3" pipings. I have found Lukey as a good and quality but still reasonable priced company to offer me a free flowing exhaust with a nice but not too loud note (in respect to noise pollution). Unfortunately i couldnt make such things myself but i got the lost installed fro 250 dollars all up. Performance upgrade maybe another 2 or 3 kW depending on engine and condition. throw it ona dyno and see what ya get 
to finish of ur exhaust system headers/extractors with a good free flwoing cat will impress ya. Depending on engine size there quite a few brands who make extractors, but doing my research Pacemakers have developed extractors for my car which are 6 > 2 > 1 extractors, without too many inpiping disturbances , because joint are not only welded onthe outside, but also on the inside. I got that nice piece of art for 320 dollar not installed, which a freind of mine did, but it gave him quite a bit of a headache (sorry mate!). Main reason at the time was i was keeping the original cat at that time, which needed to be cut and flanges welded back on, which prooved to be a PITA. so 2 weeks later i went and got myself a V8 bigbody cat (sorry i forgot the brand). Got it for 250 bucks fitted. fair deal i rekon.
All up i spend on hardware upgrades around 1k, which gave me an imrpovemnt from 94kW stock to 104 kW at wheels (mentioning not being tuned and extractors and cat hasnt been fitted at that time).
I also updated the ECU from a stock ECU to a Tickford XR spec one which cost me 160 bucks. After a bit of tuning and the ECU (and the extractors and cat) i got a nice 111kW at the wheels, which means an up of 17 kW ... not too bad considering these are only minor upgrades.
But to talk about an effective bag for ur buck:
The best imrpovemnt u will always achieve when uprgrading cams and porting ur head. Its expensive but that will gurantee u a series upgrade on performance. For that mod u r looking at around $2000 to $3000, for a twin cam conversion up to $5000.
If u havent figured it out yet, this guide is for a Falcon ... but there is not too much of a diff to other models ...
Cheers Mic
-------------------- WHOHOO ... got my opens today ... as much as it would matter to me anyway ... and 96 in the ash tray! |
| Seckboy
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| Posted:Sep 28 2003, 12:34 AM |
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Some other things not mentioned yet are additional or larger throttle bodies. This mod will get a good gains for only $200 or so. Depends how far you want to go, on a 6 with some serious mods you can swap the single throttle for 6 smaller throttle bodies, or you can swap the single for a pair. After you've done exhaust, filter, CAI and headers this is the best bang for your buck upgrade for sure. On engines with variable valve timing and NA rotaries, this will give even bigger gains.
At this point you may want to upgrade your fuel pump too... or in cases of minor mods and simply oversizing your throttle body or going for a pair of TBs you could fit a fuel pressure regulator instead.
You can increase the compression with the use of aftermarket pistons and cam gears. Will give you big gains but costs big dollars. Not really the best bang for your buck upgrade.
At this point you need to look at things like are you conrods strong enough? pistons rings and head gasket also.
I'm a fan of NA  |
| Rodhog
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| Posted:Oct 12 2003, 12:30 AM |
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Most things have been said but i will give my opinion anyway.
modern 4cyl & 6cyl motors, Exhuast and intake these are all factory restirctions and the Factory ECU's are smart enough to either cause problems in case of say BA XR6 TURBO or in most take advantage and create more power SR20DE in a SSS.
For old school Push Rod 6cyl and V8's I have to say the same but with CAM cmas for these are cheap as and provide plently improvement. you can even add shaving of head when doing the cam. It does not coast that much in fact for under $1000 you can turn a stock 308 5L V8 with 218 cam lightly skimmed head and rejetted carb into a real animal. that is very street frinedly.
On Any forced inducted car after the restrictions up the boost.
The best advice I ever got was to look at factory raced cars off the show room like in PROCAR. These cars have very limited mods so they know what works where and what does not. As in most case one must be-carefull as in CIVIC cases the best intake is the factory and not an aftermarket pipe with Pod on the end.
-------------------- Winning is Winning Fair or not Perform on the Day It's wasn't Me
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| Droopz90IROC
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| Posted:Oct 12 2003, 12:46 AM |
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Best value mod on any car on a HP per $$$ basis is definalty nitrous. Even the most unmodified engines can still handle a good 100hp wet shot without any probs.
I got my whole setup 2nd hand for $800. Thats over 100hp straight up. Now any other mods i do to the engine will either make me faster, or able to take larger hits. Either way, it was the best money ive spent since buying the car.
Tht said, its often money well spent getting a good car to begine with and keeping it in peak contition. Often a good service will sqeeze 10-15hp outs most cars.
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