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| Rodhog
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| Posted:Dec 4 2002, 12:16 PM |
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These thigns are very important
I was reminde to day about how bad they can get
When a VN (Toyota badges lexan) Commodore was in for service at a mates place But a little weight on it. OH my God this thing floated staionary jus kept rocking, Then I try one finger little pressure the who thing kept going.
SHock Absorbers.
IF you ever buy a car with some k's on it. YOu don't know if or not they have changed them get it checked out. if a car bounces after you give it some shackign up and down and does not stop first time, you have problem. It can also be seen when at high speed the car float. If you think this is not problem trust me it is. At any time a that speed you could have wheels leave the gorund after a litte bump. Also extra nose dive under brakes is another sign you will always notic wonr shocks on a Taxi as they dive under brakes right behind you or the car next to you.
Shocks are very important, they keep the wheels on the ground, as for Handling Alot of cars go a hell alot better with shocks in them that good alng with sligthtly better springs and roll bars. Always the forgotten area is shocks.
I RECOMMEND
The Following 2 as proven cost effective shocks
KYB and BILSTEIN
KYB are the perfect shock for just about every thing. They are factory fitterment to alot of cars and do last alot longer then cheaper models/brands that have replaced them due to cost cutting
EXAMPLE :
KYB's Were fitted to HOLDEN in the 70's Originally and lasted an easy 100,000k's /10 years just like they do today with newer cars. I foudn a 1970's HX Kingswood Premier
this was original down to the owner had every original and oly 2nd set of tyres on it 60,000k's on the clock original. The shocks were KYB's made in Australia but still after all that time had life in them yes not 100,000k's but over 20 years old and the car was still stable (Engine was still fresh).
TODAY DUe ot Cost cutting HOLDEN Use Monroe shock, Monroe don't make a crap shock when you go buy after market shock, they are better then factory fitted. BUt due to COst cutting Monroe fit a Poor shock and may only last up to 30,000K's
Shocks are not covered under warrenty by Holden and considered part of wear and tear.
KYB"s have just about every shock to suit every car.
For you MAZDA people they are Factory fitted but when going to replace and use KYB shocks you will find, you have the option of standard, Heavy duty, Adjustable IF available and many more. I recomend the Heavy duty to cost over standard is worth every bit.
PRICE KYB =626 $175 EACH front shocks heavy duty i ONLY HAVE A $325 A PAIR CONFIRMED PRICE
MAZDA (Made by KYB) $289 front shock each.
BILSTEIN =
What can you say but the BEST
When it's being made to be the best it's used
Toyota Have used them in there Supra, standard fitterment in most BMW's and MERC's
and alot of other german cars.
BILSTEIN SHOCKS LAST and can be made to fit any car on the road. I have found old BMW's with them original and still some life in them. Most cna be rebuilt unlike the KYB's and others on the market. This is soemthing more of a Race person or if you plan on keeping your car forever.Like most shocks under race conditions or track work they get hot but BILSTEINS are known for taking the punishment so if hard long driving is your plan or weekend track work (=at least once a month) Consider Bilstens
The range is vast but you will never find a better shock. Yes a few specials but I dont' think you want to pay $1000 a corner jsut on a shock
OTHERS
KONI's are good in between KYB and BILSTEIN
Most inserts but do have some off the shelf for more popular models
there adjustables are popular, but mostly used incorrectly.
Still a good product race proven a good alternative to Bilsteins
MONROE a big name in australia and good for the family car
but in my opinion no match for the KYB's
the Pick I think is Premium GT shock but I have seensoem break under track use most
in the rear of Live rear axle cars with big power.
WHAT NOT TOO TOUCH
GABRIEL'S have patchy resutls with me and in most cases a failure
only good for selling or Pink slip use.
Don't like them lasted 2 weeks in one car and it was driven by an old lady
Pedders use in some cases there own which also have mixed result in most case
a Monroe will last longer.
This post has been edited by Rodhog on Mar 20 2003, 07:49 PM
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| mx68u
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| Posted:Dec 4 2002, 06:18 PM |
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i definately need to replace mine just like most things on my car 
what brands / setups do you suggest rod, whats your experience with coilover's and the traditional setups?
I was thinking that since my current (lowered) springs will need replacing anywayz i might opt for a full coil-over setup (if someone makes them for the 6), now they are a lil more pricey but how do they compare in terms of handling over the traditional spring/ insert shock setup?
coil-overs generally cost over $2000 while custom koni's for custom springs will cost around $800 with springs $350. Now from my understanding the koni's will allow some adjustment in terms of dampening (hardness/softness) and travel whilst the coil-overs also allow actual ride adjustment, is this correct? err... my prices are probably off too  |
| 2Rusty
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| Posted:Jan 25 2003, 04:33 PM |
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Oh man what I wouldn't do for a set of Konis. From what I've seen those King Springs you guys get down there are pretty killer. I'd like to try a set of those too.
Ever seen the movie "Uncle Buck" with John Candy? He drives this huge abondoned land yacht with totally shot dampers. It's hilarious.
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| Rodhog
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| Posted:Mar 10 2003, 09:12 PM |
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I'd like hydrolics myself
I think you cna order kings springs over the net
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| 90tx5
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| Posted:Mar 10 2003, 11:33 PM |
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i have some stage 2 lowered king springs, which i had put in just after purchasing my car, and they help so much. i have noticed a huge difference in handling like i can take corners alot faster, and launching is so much better i can drop it at 3 grand and get little wheel spin on stock rubber
but as for the struts they r stnd
my friend has a 89'tx5 and he has cut springs and it's fucked, the car handles like shit u can noticibly feel every rock on the road launches fucking good though. mind u it sits about an inch from the ground
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| mx68u
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| Posted:Mar 11 2003, 12:37 AM |
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coil overs were a pipe dream...
im definately going for the "superlow" kings springs and custom koni option but probably not for a while yet as there are so many things that need attention  |
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| Posted:Mar 17 2003, 02:20 PM |
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How much does a set of Koni adjustables (damper/hieght) cost cause I recently got a quote and just wanna know if I should go somewhere else. If someone can help that would be appreciated  |
| Rodhog
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| Posted:Mar 18 2003, 01:11 PM |
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KONIS will cost anywhere from $150 new to $400 pair new just for shocks
I have only messed with adjustable shocks only for damperning
never touch the full coil-over adjustable type.
if they are straight drop in you don't have labour costs.
If you question a price ring around and you will soon get an idea of how much they are.
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| Posted:Mar 19 2003, 11:12 AM |
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yeah you should budget around $800 for shocks from what i've heard, to get custom konis suited to your specific springs they will probably be in the higher end of rods mentioned bracket...
Since the super low mx6 king springs are designed and mass produced (well sort of) they would be consistent in spring rates so by any chance would someone provide an off-the shelf shock for those springs?
and about the KYB's rod, i heard a couple of positives about them.. do they customise to match springs? any idea on the cost, something like $200 a piece like the konis? |
| timtx5
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| Posted:Mar 19 2003, 11:57 PM |
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Shocks are another thing eventual down the track.
Unfortunately I have a little more to do before then such as control arms, leaking PS rack and some other stuff. Works out to about $1800!!
90TX5 - How much did you pay for lowered springs and where. Dont think I will be going superlows though, as my exhaust and bottom of cars seems to hit stuff already! |
| 90tx5
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| Posted:Mar 20 2003, 03:36 PM |
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i paid $300 from quickfit, but that is cheap as they stuffed the price up
the price i should of paid is around $500
it's about $250 for all four springs, and it's like $50 bucks for the wheel alignment, and it's about $150-$200 for labour
mine is stage 2 lowered and it droped it about 3-4 inches
i have to go super slow aver speed bumps and shit but it's worth it for the traction and the handling i get!!!!!
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| Rodhog
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| Posted:Mar 20 2003, 07:19 PM |
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Okay I made a few mistakeswith my edit with priceing
Sorry about that but it was late and I was working on old prices /also trade discount prices didn't quite get them right
As for the Mx-6 using as an example
KYB Heavy duty a pair are around $300 I think $325-350. I found prices to vary on the street.
The Koni's actually can cost after a fair bit of work on some cars $1000 on one car I saw 2 days ago which still is not finihed the work that went into getting them to be at the right height with correct full drop length proved an expensive bit of work not only did one shock leak due to a bit of over heating, A couple of remakes of soem springs were required. But that was for a track car. But at $400 pair for the shocks plus the work to get them in and sitting right, it was still better then getting the bilsteins to fit. The car did have other options but it was to be track so Koni's got the Nod.
KINGS SPRINGS and other off the shelf springs
Okay Kings springs well they make 2 levels and 3 levels of off the shelf height
you have Your of the shelf for use with original and off the shelf shocks and CUstom rated springs.
Then you have
Standard
LOW and 1-2.5inches depending on car
SUPER LOW 2inches to 4.5 inches again depending on car.
Kings springs are well built and when mated with new or even when mated to a shock rebuilt to the spring rates.
RE-rating shocks to the springs is essential for the extreme and track car serious.
Does this apply to you, in most cases new shocks and lower springs with progressive rates do quite well togeather, as long as it's not overly lowered it will handle better then standard.
NOTE: MAJOR LOWERING DOES NOT MAKE THE CAR A BETTER HANDLER.
most cars come for mfactory very well setup, soem like the 2nd gen Mx-6 and Hond prelude of the same years only require a thicker rear sawy bar to make them as goods and better then a Type R.
In alot of cases I have seen cars too stiff for real hard on driving, sure there is not Roll but that's what the bars are there to do. Reason they are known as Anti-Roll Bars.
Take a Type R (1st version) and it sakes on all the holes, hits them hard and in the wet skids arcoss bad undulations, take a VXSS it soaks them up at the sam tiem as giveing good response and ride. Okay ones has recaros other has big buckets, but it's when
you get in a HSV CLUBBY R8 you see where soem of the comfort has dissapread for a more TYPE R ride and handling but still takes the really crap roads Sydney has to offer.
Now It's hard to say as I was in melbourne when I drove a VX SENATOR but it was agian totally different better then the SS but not as harsh as the R8, more Luxury infact it felt very soft but still very flat, I didn't get to drive it on many Syndey type Roads so a comparison on the crap roads in Sydney, is hard to say if it was better then a SS in taking the pot holes.
So before you lower decide what it is you really desire
LOOKS -HANLDING - COMFORT =Factory in most cases
Every thing is a compromise but, I have never had problem of giveing up the LOOK for Comfort but most important Handling is my priority. REASON I hate having bad shocks in my.
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