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| mx68u
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| Posted:Oct 27 2002, 05:12 PM |
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hey guys.. lately my car has been stalling under just normal driving conditions... This actually started happening a while back where i would be say driving a constant speed or thashing (doesnt seem to matter) and the ignition will just completely cut out... as i roll to a halt i turn the ignition to reds and nothing happens... take the keys out of the ignition and then try again.. after a couple of times i get reds again, start the car and im on my way...
lately wats been happening is whilst driving i get 3 lights on my dash lights almost like its all coming from one bulb (although thats impossible becoz each section has its own dedicated bulb sealed off) and the intensity of the light's will vary, sort of flash and change from very dim to very bright.. all three lights at the same time... the three lights are charge, break and rear. the rest are completely normal.. since this flashing the problem has been occuring much more frequently..
my guess is that the cables to these three lights are bundled together and there is some sort of short circut thats occuring due to vibrations perhaps.. funny thing is that the car will work fine after a few attempts of trying to start the car if you just give it some time after this short occurs... i mean slaming the dash with my fist doesnt seem to have an impact anywayz..
so if you guys have any ideas... id appreciate it.. i mean if any1 knows these there sections (brake, rear and charge) are associated in some way then let me know... i really want to have an idea before i take it to the auto electrician... hmmm might pull apart the under dash plastic cover and have a look... i remember last time i did it it was quite a mess...
anywayz.. i have a disconnected yellow light alarm installed as well as a HKS turbo timer if that has any bearing.. thanks guys..
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| Tas71e
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 Posted:Oct 27 2002, 06:19 PM |
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my 1st suggestion would be to check the points in your distributor cap
you might be lucky and only need to spend $20AU for top range distribution points and it wouldnt hurt to check your fuse box and wiring loom for split wires which can harden and crack with engine heat over the years.
Worst case scenario would be a dash out job and that can become costly
as far as your TT it could be burning your points but unlikely so reconnect it should be ok
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Personally i prefer to insert my nitrous {N20}
rectally for the addded head buzz and long lasting effect
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| Rodhog
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| Posted:Oct 28 2002, 11:43 PM |
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Is your alternator old / new /original
I have seen it on many a Jap import to have the alternator go this way.
To check multimeter to voltage start it up it should straight out put at least 12.9 minimum and should go up to 13.8 at say 3500rpm
now I doubt it would be your battery, but I have had similar problem with my car with the alternator not that it stall but the main problem with the factory mistubishi alternator is it works when you first start it up but then just hit's a 12Volt stage when it gets hot then once hot no matter how many times you start the car and shut it down it just pumps 12Volts or what ever it decides to pump out. Mine was just providing enough to charge the batter on a cold start up run the stereo for a little time gone never start. But lights like you have said sounds like alternator.
If it's the case
your fix is $450 odd in a new Bosch 85AMp alternator 15AMps more thne factory
you can go as high as 120amp but two problems with these bigger alternaotrs is a belt to run it. The 85 can run off the new bosch factory belt with same 3 ribs but you will have to keep tensioned, It Jumped on me and I had to get a new again but I caught it before I killed my battery. The problem with a 120amp is that fitting a wider belt in that the mount on the engine is the one closer to the engine. But 85Amp alternator wil lpump 85AMPS BETWEEN 2000RPM TO 6000RPM
the factory one only pumps like 70amps when it's at 5000rpm and in most cases never makes that much power.
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| mx68u
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| Posted:Oct 29 2002, 01:53 PM |
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cool thanks for the reply rod.. sounds like an idea.. ill test it out and keep you posted.. at least i have something to check out now 
i replaced my tiny battery with a hardcore massive version... needed to mod the battery floor pan and buy a new braket to suit but i think the battery is fine... wouldnt i be running into flat battery problems if my alternator was screwed? i've heard these alternators go all the time on our cars so its probably it... last thing i expect tho 
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| Rodhog
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| Posted:Oct 29 2002, 10:31 PM |
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Yeah I did the same 550CCAmp battery.
But if hides flat batterys by just providing enough power to recharge, before it fails due to heat, only way you find out is a flat battery sdtart it try and charge batttey for 30-60mins if it does not restart motor you know what's wrong. I have Lost 2 batterys before I picked it up.
It's comon but I can tell you the factory one is hard to rebuid and in most cases is never done Bosch ones last about 50,000k's before regulator can play up but gives you a straight warning light comes straight up. It's only $130 odd to rebuild regulator and not much on labour. Ihave had to do it with my brother Mazda GC 626 He only fitted a 65 amp one but they are worth it.
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| mx68u
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 Posted:Nov 3 2002, 02:57 PM |
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cheers rod.. ill check it out asap..
so you feel the alternator is directly associated with the flashing warning lights but what about the "reds" not actually coming up, almost like a immoboliser, car stalls whilst driving, pull over, try to start the car, nothing, again, nothing, again, maybe reds come up... car starts.. everything is fine again... btw i had this problem heaps before the flashing warnin lights.. |
| Tas71e
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| Posted:Nov 3 2002, 09:06 PM |
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Like i said earlier
i believe that over the years the heat in the engine bay will actually make the wiring brittle and lose its conductivity.
I believe cos i had the same issue of it will start when it wants to scenario in my celica
It was my starter motor and the surrounding wiring looms
basically the charge from the battery was going to the starter but it was dropping in volts as it passed through so i had 2 options to me either rewire the surrounding looms and rebuild or replace the starter motor or Chippo Auto Electrical did it for me
he ran a direct 12v cable from the battery to the starter motor and my problem was solved
i mean it might not be a solution but its most definitely an option just by going on what you said and personal experience
--------------------
Personally i prefer to insert my nitrous {N20}
rectally for the addded head buzz and long lasting effect
MY CAR PICTURES IN MEMBERS SECTION, VOTE! |
