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| SABBAi
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 Posted:Feb 11 2004, 09:33 AM |
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Hi guys, as you can guess I'm fairly new here. I own a 1990 TX5 Turbo. Small mods like B.O.V 2.75" cat back exhaust. Standard air filter. I think that It might have a different internal wastegate actuator, as it seems to have move go that another car i drove.
Anyways, the problem I have is that I'll be driving through the gears on a cool crisp night and I get to about 4500rpm in 3rd gear, and it over boosts. Or what the ECU thinks is over boost. I get a buzz noise and then fuel cut. I read the manual and it says that it'll sound the buzzer when it over boost. It doesn't say it'll use the fuel cut. 
My mate has a R33 GTR and he beleives it could have something to do with the restictive dump pipe and standard CAT. HE had a HKS dump pipe and cat system installed and it made a big diffenrece.
Would getting a uftermarket dump and cat system help with this suposed over boosting???
It happens more often than not. I also noticed that when I fitted my cold air intake it lowered the point it would boost, and also over boost is more common.
Any suggestions????  |
| Rodhog
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| Posted:Feb 13 2004, 02:09 AM |
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What has proberly happened is your using the stock boost controller, they fail and stop working and cause an over boost spike.
Best easy way is to, just replace both rubber lines from the cover of the turbo compressor and it goes udner the car to a a boost controller mounted on the turbo, this has two other lines a small thin return to the plastic intake pipe and the main one to the Wastegate actuator.
To prove it's the problem you cna just by pass the boost controller with new rubber hose.
or replace both as it could be a leak in both lines.
One of the rubber lines does have a brass "olive" or restrictor it allows the bosot controller factory or Aftermarket to allow for adjustment.
So you can do that or replace the factory boost controller with a aftermarket one.
cost oyu aobut $100 new or less or even 2nd hand it's also known as a bleed valve.
Should stop the beeping.
but these is another possiblity
you might have a leak from the air box to turbo to intercooler to throtle body. the rubber boot does crack and can cause this situation, it's about $180 new I think.
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| Posted:Feb 13 2004, 09:27 AM |
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Thanks for that Rodhog.
I have checked all the hoses from the airfilter to turbo, tto intercooler then to the throttle body.
About a week after I bought the car, I was giving it a bit, and the power died in the arse. Rough idle, slight knocking noise almost stalling. I got it home and found that it had blown the hose from the turbo to the intercooler off. I just put it down to the worm clamp not being tight enough.
It also has a T piece in the boost line from the turbo outlet before the boost controller. this has a short piece of tube with a long screw in it. I'm not sure if it was made like that so as the screw is inside the T piece, to act as a DIY boost controller. screw it in, it restricts flow to the waste gate, screw it out and the opposite happens.
I was looking at getting a single stage boost controller so that I can switch between factory boost levels and say 14psi. If I fit this do I have to disconnect the factory one?? Should this help with boost spikes? I was also looking into either a unichip or power chip upgrade for the ECU.
Do these allow for a higher boost setting without disrupting anything like this over boost function?? |
| Rodhog
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| Posted:Feb 14 2004, 12:06 AM |
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WEll yes any aftermarket boost control you should by-pass the factory boost controller.
you might want ot check the intercooler for crakcs they have been known to split. Just in case.
As for over boost function
Powerchip , I jsut dont' trust them IMO I have to say they are crap.
Unichip is the safeest option IMO you can even option it with it's own boost controller.
the advantages are good,it raises the boost cut does not remove it all togeather just raises it can remove it but your own risk. THe tuner of the unichip will tell you this.
Chiptorues chip is another good way to chip your car.
The only advantage unichip has over it so much is that alot of the factory gear is left untouched so much that you just unplug the unichip if you sell the car and reconnect a few wires and put the unichip on your new car.
Chiptorques chip on the other hand is a fairly final thing.
Both unfortunatly have to be installed and tuned by a dealer.
Unichip has the slight advantage of being tuned much quicker then the chiptorque as they have to bunr a new chip or map when you do new mods.
Unichip they plus a special cable and laptop and program which un like other aftermarket ECU's is available to public, it's only available to unichip installers. They claim it keeps cost down.
but it does mean you cna add a new turbo book it in for the next day to be re tuned and it's done.
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| Posted:Feb 14 2004, 11:10 AM |
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I was leaning towards the Uni chip anyways. But now I guess I have to find an authorised dealer.
Would you know if AVO are? |
| mx68u
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| Posted:Feb 14 2004, 04:30 PM |
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yeah rod seems pretty happy with the uni chip.. and since its a piggy back u can always just rip it off and return it back to factory which is a really big plus if you want to say return your car to stock for selling and sell or keep the aftermarket compents separately :tumbup:
i actually have a chiptorque chip and im pretty happy with it, ill be installing new injectors soon along with a larger fuel pump and get a re-tune done with my new front mount and turbo.. it should really push the limits of the chips capabilities... im hoping that after its all done the car will behave quite well...
either way it seems like a decent time to get a chip for you since your already running a home made boost controller and larger exhaust with CAI so you will notice quite a difference with a couple extra pounds of boost.. im not sure if AVO do the, probably good idea to look around
http://www.unichip.com.au/
they will put you in touch with a few people.. best to just drive around.. talk to them about your car, how far you can go and what they feel would be good for it.. find out who knows their stuff...
also a dump pipe would be a good upgrade if your not thinking of a larger turbo in the future... if you are sit back until you can sort out the turbo and then get a dumpipe to suit..
let us know how you go |
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| Posted:Feb 15 2004, 01:24 PM |
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What is tha max boost that the IHI RH5B turbo stand, and still be relaible. This would directly relate to how much power I'll be able to get out of the engine without any major mods. ie internally.
On the 2 do list include
larger front mount.
ECU Chip
Dump pipe
hi flow air filter
indexed plugs
decent leads
posible custom exhaust manifold
and if funds permit in the near future a TO3/04
What's your guess in max power with these mods, keeping the standard tubo, and then with the TO3/O4? |
| Rodhog
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| Posted:Feb 15 2004, 08:32 PM |
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well 10-12psi at the manifold with stock cooler is most you really want to push with a higher flowing cooler it's okay to 14psi.
but it is a really small turbo for an engine the size of 2.2L so an upgrade or highflow gives good results.
but I have seen sotck turbos go up to 18psi with correct fueling, but 16psi is said to be it's max and I personally think 12psi as after that it frys the air.
all your mods sound good the manifold is something I woudl only do when upgrading turbo.
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| Posted:Feb 16 2004, 09:39 PM |
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yeah same here if your going for a custom manifold you should hold it till you get a larger turbo, same with the dump pipe otherwise you will just have to replace it later.. or use adaptor plates....
check out my thread in general car discussions "finally a FMIC" or something.. it just arrived today.. bloody bargin at $500  |
