|
|
| Rodhog
|
| Moderator |
 |
| Group: Moderators |
| Posts: 365 |
| Member No.: 19 |
Car Profile: Available
|
| Status: Offline |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
| Posted:Dec 4 2002, 12:33 PM |
|
|
No Mater what model car it is a New stiffer Rollbar will always give you your best ban for buck on most Production cars. Roll bar is the same for sawy bar and has alot of other names but I will refer them to roll bar as they are desgin to control roll
Reason : Wally Effect , what is Wally effect ?
Okay wally effect is soemthing alot of people think is a myth, it's fact. Car makers want all there cars to understeer at the limt as they see this as the safest approch. Which is true ever seen a leaner (Male or female) in a VN or simliar light weight RWD car with low down torque. In the wet these things have left more P-plates in poles then anything else.
Wally effect makes sure the car understeers and keeps doing this even when the throtle is lifted mid corner so no oversteer ocurrs Which is comon to early model FWD's.
Now what does a Roll bar do? other then tie both ends of a car chassis togeather -
Most cars have front ones just about any car from the 1960's has had front roll bar, Rear Roll bars are still only fitted to medium and up size cars or small hatches with highroll center (Like 121 bouble)
Front Roll bar is generally thick to control the weight of the engine which in 90% of production cars is in the front. It does two things in most cases weight control of the fornt of the car but also due to the criss crosseffec it also effects the back wheels As does a Roll bar on rear. Front Roll bars on the most cars come fairly well sized and quite adiquite for most driving even on edge drivieng.
Rear ROLL bar does alot to most cars as due to the criss cross effect it keeps the inside fornt wheel down and in more contract with the road when cornering hard. BY limiting the roll the weight does not shift as far, ue to the stiffining up of the rear you get end up with a car that will follow and turn in better. What size do we go up? well in most cases you don't want to go too far as you coudl end up with soemthing that can be very dangerous. You still need roll as well, it wil lalso dependo n other things that you may have done to the car say lower stiffer springs which alot of people do for looks and this is why it gives people the impresseon lower springs work better becuase limited body roll agian but the truth is some times too low and you loose travel whihc menas you can't soak up the bumps meaning the car becomes hard to conrtol on band surfaces when going hard.
--------------------
Winning is Winning
Fair or not
Perform on the Day
It's wasn't Me
RODHOG PROFILE |
| ODIN
|
| KLZE next year???? |
|
| Group: Moderators |
| Posts: 573 |
| Member No.: 13 |
Car Profile: Available
|
| Status: Offline |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
| Posted:Dec 4 2002, 12:54 PM |
|
|
Note Roll bars are also called swaybars everybody  BTW good post, Rodhog
--------------------
mx6.com
My 2nd Gen MX6 Profile |
| mx68u
|
| Admin |
|
| Group: Admin |
| Posts: 1128 |
| Member No.: 1 |
Car Profile: Available
|
| Status: Offline |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
| Posted:Dec 4 2002, 06:01 PM |
|
|
nice rod!
i must say the handling on my 6 leaves a little to be desired, seems to be all over the place on bumps and corners. Mainly i attribute this to the lowered springs combined with bottoming out stock shocks, once i finish my turbo setup ill invest some dollars into it but that probably wont be for a while 
i have heard that a good cheap mod to improve handling on cars equipped with roll bars that are a few years old would be to just replace the factory end links with new items. Apparently these tend to deteriorate after a while greatly reducing the effect they have on handling. I havent done mine yet but hopefully i will soon, ill let you guys know if there is any improvement, some people swear by it!
not much or a "mod", but still might increase handling performance slightly for those on a reallllly tight budget like myself, especially since i've got 0 funds coming in atm  |
| mx68u
|
| Admin |
|
| Group: Admin |
| Posts: 1128 |
| Member No.: 1 |
Car Profile: Available
|
| Status: Offline |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Posted:Dec 4 2002, 06:03 PM |
|
|
btw rod, how much would a tower brace, front and rear sway bars set you back, maybe around $800 for a complete kit from whiteline? wouldnt do much for quarter mile times but it would sure enhance the drivability, esp on a FWD, make those natio runs that much more exciting  |
| Peaknhard
|
| Civic Type-R |
|
| Group: Banned |
| Posts: 186 |
| Member No.: 6 |
Car Profile: Available
|
| Status: Offline |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
| Posted:Dec 5 2002, 04:56 PM |
|
|
mad info.
i know what u mean about FWD oversteer midway thru corners thats how i rolled my GTi...a rear sway bar would of done wonders that day...it was someything i was looking at doing too..wish i had
a must have mod i reckon...especially for FWD's
--------------------
"Peaknhard Bro, PEAKnhard" |
| Rodhog
|
| Moderator |
|
| Group: Moderators |
| Posts: 365 |
| Member No.: 19 |
Car Profile: Available
|
| Status: Offline |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Posted:Dec 5 2002, 05:48 PM |
|
|
I thought I have all this
$hit/stuff that people tel me show me Might as well us it.
Mx68U for your car the best handling thing I think becuase the factory bar on the 2WS mx-6 is fine for most uses is a $170 or $165 K-mac whiteline what ever rear bar, it's about 18mm solid I think from memory. I know I have a 20mm and 22mm option but the Wagon has the 18mm which I think from my last check is the same for the Mx-6 2WS
I mean with my mates 2 Kingswoods the one with the rear factory sway bar holds it's line so much better, the Six will step out with limited wheels spin. One time at brighton in the wet of course why not really we have done it in the dry, turning onto bay street full load of guys, we drifted it up from grand parade from city about 30meters. BUt this HZ with the rear bar holds it's line and only steps out because of grip but does less so when under normal driving.
--------------------
Winning is Winning
Fair or not
Perform on the Day
It's wasn't Me
RODHOG PROFILE |
| Lloyd
|
| Newbie |
|
| Group: Members |
| Posts: 22 |
| Member No.: 118 |
|
|
| Status: Offline |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
| Posted:Jan 22 2003, 08:46 PM |
|
|
Very well said, there was a thing like that said on Fast Fours Forum a few months ago and it started a huge debate.
Anyway, I need a stiffer rear bar for the GSR and I'm going to raise it a lil bit, just enough to get my driveshafts level as the guy before me went a touch overboard. Like, about 65mm ride height overboard .
--------------------
Feel like a tool......play with some nuts.
A dude from Tasmania, who is living and working in Darwin but wishing he was in Victoria..... |
| 2Rusty
|
| Occasional Poster |
|
| Group: Members |
| Posts: 50 |
| Member No.: 114 |
Car Profile: Available
|
| Status: Offline |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
| Posted:Jan 23 2003, 02:28 AM |
|
|
On my 2WS MX-6 I upgraded the stock 24.2mm (0.95") front bar to a full 1" solid bar & upgraded the 16mm (0.63") rear bar to a 7/8" solid bar with polyurethane bushings all over. I think it's a great setup for everyday driving. Fairly flat, overall just a hint of understeer & I've noticed oversteer at low speeds a couple times but no biggie.
BTW great writeup Rodhog!
--------------------
1992 MX-6 GT turbo |
