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| Rodhog
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| Posted:Oct 15 2002, 04:31 PM |
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Improving the intake of your car with out cost. Applys to most late model EFI cars
Silencers and intake systems from the factory not just suck in air for the motor they have to do it quitely. To reduce this noise they add silencers and small intake pipes.
But some like on the Mx-6 turbo can be made better.
After the airbox a rubber pipe joins a plactic intake pipe that heads down into the Left front (passenger side) gaurd. Itsucks air from behind the left indictaor light.
All you need to get at them if you car is stock is removal of the inner gaurd's plastic filler. Removal of it by either turning the wheel to get at the phillips head srew/8mm headed bolt screw. You can also remove the wheel all togeather. You now can see it inside your inner gaurd.
The pipe has holes on the turbo model and has foam layer on the outside covering the holes, which is then covered by a plastic caseing. it then has a large nippile for a rubber pipe to join the Silencer box.
To remove you must unbolt the silencer which is held by 2 bolts with 10mm heads. One is just under the batttey, the other inside the gaurd. The silencer can be removed with out any damage.
The intake pipe must be remove to remove it's cover. The cover which holds the foam in over the holes is 2 parts screwed togeather. 2 more bolts with 10mm heads hold the pipe inplace, one sits right down the end towards the front of the car making it difficult to remove.
Once removed Remove the screws from the cover split it open and remove the foam.
Now replace the intake pipe and you have a better flowing intake. This also helps because if you get defected it unseen and unlikely to be detected. Add a cold air pipe to help this system latter on it's cheep and can be done in 1 hour.
Pics will be up to help you.
This is mostly for the MX-6
But many a new car has a restrictive intake to keep noise down. Turbo cars mostly carry big heavy intake silencers. WRX's with it removed drop 200-800rpm with on boost lag. Even N/A cars can benift from the less restriction when the car is trying to suck in the air. Of course turbo cars use the turbo but does help response.
remember this may not be legal in your state
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| Posted:Oct 15 2002, 04:53 PM |
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Some pictures to help you
Not very good quality Sorry
what you get from factory
Intake apart and cover
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| Posted:Oct 15 2002, 06:34 PM |
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nice rod... i never pulled apart the casing.. once i saw all that junk i just placed that pirtek pipping... ill do a writeup on the setup when i complete it.. im thinking of doing 2 setups.. one with the factory airbox modded and then the other with my current pod filter and a casing... then whip out the gtech and see which one performs better.. might be a bit futile becoz im not willing on investing on a k&n dropin... ill just be using the stock filter for the tests  |
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| Posted:Oct 15 2002, 11:21 PM |
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Don't bother with drop in panel by K&N or any of them
the only reason Pods sometimes show good consistant 1Kw results on some cars is because it gets rid of this factory restriction.
In fact most people who have seen dyno runs can't prove that the 1Kw increase or decrease is because of a filter in most cases it's due to temperature increase or drop.
What POD's offer over the panel is larger greater surface intake area. What that means is more air to suck through.
When you look at the top race cars around the world they either did not use a filter like most early F1's or use a sealed ram air filtered intake. Most Group A cars of the 80's uses washable panel filters which were ducted with ram air but in large area. Group A VN HDT cars use twin filter setup to each (TB) throttle body. They sat behind each headlight in a sealed Carbon fibre/fiberglass intake and ducting to TB.
As said by a Race car builder. "The secret to good filtration and intake air is. TO have is rammed in at 60km/h plus with a good quality filter does not matter if it's slightly restricted, as long as it has the largest surface area. Heat must also be keep to out to make it efficient".
For your tests use a factory white cotton covered air filter from Mazda. There is also a cheap paper in pink/red. This is more comon but the white one is better overall.
Just note Pods are not legal in any state due to EPA rules. With out testing
but if anybody plans to use them you must heat sheild them well or the only benift over the original setup is Noise.
As they say Factory knows best.
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| Posted:Oct 16 2002, 01:16 AM |
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Hi all,
Couldn't help reading the post and some of the responses to this topic as I just cleaned out my air filter recently. Anyway, I thought I'd add some of my experiences with this as I've tried both Pod(Blitz SUS(S/Steel pod filter)) and Panel(currently in use) filters. The Blitz Pod filter totally sucks for a $250 filter, as the amount of filtration it offers is very bad, but the flow-through is very very high. I had my pod filter in the engine bay(but not in a separate chamber), therefore at traffic lights and slow crawls it used to get a lot of heatsoak. I wouldn't recommend a pod filter unless you have made like a sort of chamber to separate the hot enginebay air with the cool air that is meant to flow into the filter element.
I have a K&N Panel(replacement for stock airbox) filter in my car and the results are reasonably ok. Had to stick with the K&N Panel replacement to keep the cops off my back(usually get a defect for it).
One of the most suprising things about using the K&N filter was the amount of sand/dirt/dust/dead bugs that was trapped within the filter. It was about 1/4 of a cup. Anyway, it was about 9 months since I last cleaned my filter, but the amount of dirt/grime that was stuck in it was a suprise.
Oh yeah, I have a custom made cold air induction setup from the stock airbox leading to one of the vents into my frontbar(just below the license plate). 3" aviation type coiled tubing(orange colour) from the airbox into the front left 1/4 under the guard, then under the re-inforcing bar of the front bumper and installed a 4"-into-3" PVC(ABS) tapered funnel type thing($3-4 from bunnings) - to ram more air into the tubing, and secured with dodgey zip ties . I have step by step pictures of my cold air induction mod if anyone wants to see.
I would higly recommend spending a few hours on a spare weekend just to take off your front bumper, getting rid of the anti-resonance chambers on the front left 1/4 panels as they is about 1" diameter indirect flow to the airbox lol. All up the cost for a custom air induction would be about 4-5 hours and probably under $70(most expensive part is the aviation type orange tubing, cost me $30 for 50cm).
Assuming that you've already done your exhaust(2.5/3" from turbo back, blah blah). If you find that your car is overboosting or having boost spikes
there is a dodgey trick with a drill and a screw driver u can try 
The best part about a cold air feed is that when under throttle, there is a noticeable performance gain, maybe one or two kW, but the spool-up of the turbo is noticeably louder(yeh rice i know ).
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---------------- Modifications ----------------
_____Induction: 3" Custom cold air feed, K&N Panel in stock airbox
_______Exhaust: 3" dump > 3" Flex > 3" Hi-Flo Cat > 3" Muffler > 3.3" tip
__Under Bonnet: Rebuilt Engine, Custom FMIC, HKS EVC III, Custom Oil/Air Sep.
______Exterior: Custom Bodykit, 16" Futura Rims/Tyres
________Stereo: ////ALPINE AI-NET CVA-1000E, CHA-S634 MP3 Stacker
------- (plug).. http://jkf.cc for the best computer prices! (/plug) -------
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| Posted:Oct 16 2002, 02:04 AM |
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fark rice!... i bought a turbo for the performance and that sound 
Yeah i agree rod.. the pod filter enclosed in a casing will be an improvement over the drop in filter.. but i was curious as too how much of a difference.. i suppose it wouldnt be more than a couple of kws at its peak point...
your not talking about placing a screw in the VAF by preventing the flap from completely opening so the boost cut doesnt activate? i wouldnt try that 
I wouldnt mind seeing your pics of your setup, im running my tubing down to the left side of the front skirt where i cut a lil hole and positioned the tubing behind... btw there is no indication of an intake mod on your car in your member page
heres a pic... if you look closely enough you can see it on the bottom left
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| Posted:Oct 16 2002, 10:30 PM |
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Well I am in between in take mods. I might get a free K&N pod but don't want it
I don't want to buy a panel either I currently just use factory setup to the box. My car was in a littler incident which is why I can have no factory intake as the car is ten years old and it's noted on the police/RTA records. So i at the moment have just a cheep pipe running into the box that goes donw into the gaurd. It will change maybe by end of year. I travel in and one number of different surfaces (as you would know by now) So I find dumpping the chap factory filters in and out easier then cleaning a pod/panel. Yes I know it might be chaper with a K&N panel but I have it on good word that the differenc would be minimal.
but If I ever dump my battery in the boot that space underneath it will be used to carry a Group A racing Finer filter panel. THey cover the size just above that hole and will build a custom box/intake. Unfortunatly the panel is some what been used and a new one is $500 so if this ever does happen it will cost me.
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 Posted:Oct 17 2002, 03:07 PM |
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"your not talking about placing a screw in the VAF by preventing the flap from completely opening so the boost cut doesnt activate? i wouldnt try that
I wouldnt mind seeing your pics of your setup, im running my tubing down to the left side of the front skirt where i cut a lil hole and positioned the tubing behind... btw there is no indication of an intake mod on your car in your member page "
Hullo..
yeah i was talking about drilling and screwing the AFM with a self tapper
Ummm i got about 8-11 pics of my step-by-step cold air installation but some of the pictures are big(250k+).
Any place I can upload them? I don't wanna flood the members pictures with CAI setup pics.
Umm i forgot to mention the intake mod
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---------------- Modifications ----------------
_____Induction: 3" Custom cold air feed, K&N Panel in stock airbox
_______Exhaust: 3" dump > 3" Flex > 3" Hi-Flo Cat > 3" Muffler > 3.3" tip
__Under Bonnet: Rebuilt Engine, Custom FMIC, HKS EVC III, Custom Oil/Air Sep.
______Exterior: Custom Bodykit, 16" Futura Rims/Tyres
________Stereo: ////ALPINE AI-NET CVA-1000E, CHA-S634 MP3 Stacker
------- (plug).. http://jkf.cc for the best computer prices! (/plug) -------
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| Posted:Oct 17 2002, 04:19 PM |
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actually you only have 1 pic in your car profile so just up it there the server will compress it automatically so dont worry about the size
btw.. i allow 20 pic's per member page so feel free to put up any amount up to 20
as far as modding the AFM.. the reason its a bad idea is becoz the computer is NOT aware that the car is under full load and as a result is not delivering sufficient fuel.. combine that fact with more psi that the mod allows you to achieve and your going to melt a piston from the excessive heat caused by running incredibly lean 
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 Posted:Oct 20 2002, 06:42 PM |
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Ok pics uploaded
(on my Members car page)
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---------------- Modifications ----------------
_____Induction: 3" Custom cold air feed, K&N Panel in stock airbox
_______Exhaust: 3" dump > 3" Flex > 3" Hi-Flo Cat > 3" Muffler > 3.3" tip
__Under Bonnet: Rebuilt Engine, Custom FMIC, HKS EVC III, Custom Oil/Air Sep.
______Exterior: Custom Bodykit, 16" Futura Rims/Tyres
________Stereo: ////ALPINE AI-NET CVA-1000E, CHA-S634 MP3 Stacker
------- (plug).. http://jkf.cc for the best computer prices! (/plug) -------
[SIZE=7] |
